Fatted Calf Charcuterie
Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller are the co-owners and co-founders of the Fatted Calf Charcuterie,
which opened in 2003 and now has shops in Napa, at the Oxbow Market, and San Francisco. We are so
very fortunate to have such a sophisticated and extraordinarily creative store and kitchen in the Napa
Valley that is truly, so much more than a ‘butcher shop’. Indeed, when you “walk through the doors of
the charcuterie, it feels as if you’re entered an enchanted world of meaty wonders”.
Fatted Calf has been a huge supporter of Tres Sabores wines and we love turning our guests onto their
store as a key source of divine picnics to enjoy in the olive grove. We also know we always have a ready
customer for our Guinea Fowl in Taylor and his team.
We’re so thrilled to be able to share three of our
favorite sandwich accoutrements with you because sometimes charcuterie, with fabulous bread, and ‘all
the fixins’ really is the perfect pairing with a glass of wine. Use any one of them to elevate your
perceptions about charcuterie! (Then buy the cookbook and explore some more!)
Recipes from In the Charcuterie by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller Ten Speed Press, Berkeley
Pour a glass for the chef!
We suggest: 2019 "Ingrid and Julia" Rosé
Even without the few coveted drops of essential oil of mustard, this mostarda is a sweetly piquant foil to earthy salumi, decadent pâtés, and roasted duck or pork. It also makes an impressive stuffing for pork loins and shoulders. Although cherries are a personal favorite in this recipe, you can substitute apricots, peaches, nectarines, or peeled and diced pears for a similarly zesty concoction.
Makes 2 pint jars.
Cherries (fresh from the Farmer’s Market in season) 1 ½ lbs
Sugar 1 ½ cups
White Wine Vinegar 1/3 cup
Yellow Mustard Seeds, lightly toasted* and ground ¼ cup
Yellow Mustard Seeds, lightly toasted*, whole
Sea Salt ¾ tsp
Black Pepper ½ tsp
Essential oil of Mustard 1-2 drops (optional)
Stem and pit the cherries, reserving the pits. Place the pits on a square of cheesecloth, bring together the corners, and tie securely with twine to make a sachet (or use a muslin bag).
In a saucepan, combine the sugar and vinegar over medium heat and heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Cook for about 10 minutes or until syrupy. Add the cherries and the sachet and cook for about 10 minutes, until the fruit begins to soften. Add the ground and whole mustard seeds, cook for 2 minutes more to thicken, then pull off the heat.
Stir in the salt and pepper and carefully administer the drops of mustard oil. Let cool in the pan at room temperature. Remove and discard the sachet. Taste for seasonings and adjust if necessary, then pour into clean pint jars and refrigerate.
The mostarda keeps well, refrigerated for 2 to 3 weeks. For longer storage, process the jars in a hot-water bath for 20 minutes.
*Toast on the stop top in a dry heavy skillet over low heat or in the oven at 325 ͦF for 5 mins until aromatic.
Fresh horseradish root is gnarly, dull brown, and virtually odorless. But when fresh horseradish is peeled and grated, it produces a powerful organosulfur compound, akin to mustard oil, that can clear the sinuses and bring on tears. It also adds a delicious kick to sauces paired with roasted and grilled meats, such as this spicy version of salsa verde.
Choose horseradish roots that are firm and wrinkle-free. Peel only as much of root as you interned to grate, leaving the remainder intact. Freshly grated horseradish should be used immediately or stored covered in vinegar to avoid discoloration and bitterness.
Makes about 2 cups
Chopped fresh Flat-leaf Parsley ¾ cup
Chopped fresh Oregano ¼ cup
Capers, ¼ cup Rinsed and chopped
Garlic Pound to a paste in a mortar ¼ tsp fine sea salt to make 1 Tbsp
Horseradish Freshly grated to make 2 Tbsp
1 Lemon Grated for zest and juiced
Extra-virgin Olive Oil
In a bowl, combine the parsley, oregano, capers, garlic, horseradish, and lemon zest, and mix weel. Stir in the lemon juice and olive oil, then season with salt. Salsa Verde is best served the same day.
RED ONION RINGS
Perky pickled red onions are a happy addition to any plate. Strew them over a birria taco, toss them into salads, lay them atop your favorite burger (see the Fatted Calf Cookbook for their famous Ugly Burger recipe) or tuck them into your favorite sandwich to add a pungent bite. This simple brine can also be used to pickle pearl onions, a great addition to cocktails. Makes about 1 Quart
3 Large Red onions, sliced into rings about 1/8 thick
Red Wine Vinegar 2 cups
Sugar 1/3 cup
Fine Sea Salt 2 tsp
3 or 4 springs of Marjoram or Thyme
3 Allspice berries
1 fresh or dried chile (optional)
Place the sliced onions in a 1-quart (1Liter) jar. In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, and salt and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the marjoram, allspice, and chile and simmer for 2 minutes longer. Carefully pour the hot brine over the onions and let cool to room temperature.
Cover and refrigerate overnight before serving. Although these onions will keep refrigerator for several months, they are at their best during the first 4 weeks.